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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.